Denali climbing expeditions attempt the 20,310-foot summit of North America’s highest peak, first reached on 7 June 1913 by Hudson Stuck, Harry Karstens, Walter Harper and Robert Tatum. Most climbers today use the West Buttress route pioneered in 1951.[1]
| Summit elevation | 20,310 ft (6,190 m), measured 2015 |
|---|---|
| First ascent | 7 June 1913 |
| Popular route | West Buttress, pioneered 1951 |
| Typical climb | Two to four weeks |
| Success rate (2003) | About 58% |
| Kahiltna Glacier | 44 miles, longest in the Alaska Range |
First ascent
The 1913 party approached from the north via the Muldrow Glacier and McGonagall Pass and set a high camp at 17,500 feet. Walter Harper reached the South Summit first, followed by Tatum and Karstens, with Stuck last. Earlier attempts included James Wickersham’s failed try in 1903, Frederick Cook’s unverified 1906 claim, a disputed 1910 North Summit climb and the Parker-Browne expedition of 1912, which turned back about 200 feet short.[1]
Routes
Bradford Washburn pioneered the West Buttress in 1951 after aerial photographic study. It is considered the safest and easiest route, and the vast majority of climbers use it. Other notable routes include the South Buttress (1954), the West Rib (1959) and the Cassin Ridge (1961). The Kahiltna Glacier, 44 miles long, leads to the southwest side of the mountain.[1]
Firsts
Barbara Washburn became the first woman to summit in 1947. Naomi Uemura made the first solo ascent in 1970, the same year as the first all-female team. The first winter ascent of the West Buttress was in 1967, and Vern Tejas made the first successful winter solo in 1988.[1]
Conditions and risk
A weather station near 19,000 feet recorded −75.5°F on 1 December 2003, and a North American record wind chill of −118.1°F was recorded on 30 November 2003. About 58 percent of climbers reached the top in 2003, and the mountain had claimed nearly 100 lives by then.[1]
Measurement
The U.S. Geological Survey measured the summit at 20,310 feet in 2015, 10 feet lower than the 1952 estimate. The North Summit is about 19,470 feet.[1]
FAQs
Who made the first ascent of Denali? Hudson Stuck, Harry Karstens, Walter Harper and Robert Tatum, on 7 June 1913.
What is the most popular route? The West Buttress.
How long does a climb take? Typically two to four weeks.
How high is Denali? 20,310 feet.
Sources
Key facts
- 20,310 ft
- First ascent 1913
Quick checkWho reached the Denali summit first in 1913?Show answer
Walter Harper
Sources
- Wikipedia. Denali. 2026 (accessed 2026-11-13)
Editorially reviewed by Specialty Digest Editorial TeamLast reviewed November 13, 2026Researched and drafted with AI assistanceReport an issue